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02 Feb '16

Skin Care Routine

Posted by Linda Elle

© Valua Vitaly | Dreamstime.com

ÔĽŅSkin Care Routine ~ Basic Care of the Facial Skin ~ Linda - Elle Recommendations

With these few basic steps you can achieve great skin - but remember you have to be consistent and dedicated for results.   Do not Rub your skin instead pat ingredients into the skin or massage lightly and gently. There is so much that can be done with high quality skin care products - You don't have to be aggressive with your skin to get it to look good !  I truly beleive that you can heal and repair your skin by following a good skin care routine and using great products.  The advancement over the past 10 years in topical treatment creams for anti-aging have come such a long way with research and amazing results to back it up that for the first time in the beauty industry can we offer as professional with confidence serums/creams that will give tremendous results to treat damaged skin due to free radicals that one does not need to use botox or other invasive treatments to acheive beautiful skin but only with patience/effort, skin care routine/plan and good products!

" I am a strong believer in topical treatments with long term results not now results and worry later about the possible many side effects with more aggressive treatments such as injections and aggressive machine - aggressive/strong peels oriented exfoliations -- side effects may include transparent/sensitive skin, more wrinkles, discolorations and  so on ! (This is my opinion, Linda Elle, Esthetician-Skin Care Specialist)

Tip:   Warm up the cream on your fingertips before applying your cream - rub cream into fingertips of both hands together and gently massage into skin or pat whichever you prefer.  Or you may use the palm methode ~ apply recommended/needed amount of cream (2-3 pumps) in palm of hand and then using finger tips to dab into cream and massage into face and neck area including the decolette.  Serums apply a small amount 2-3 pumps in the palm of your hands and dip fingertips and gently massage into skin or pat whichever you prefer.  For creams use a pea size to a dime size, remember use the amount of cream or serum that you feel is best for you or that your skin needs, I dont beleive there is a one size fits all.   When you are finished applying your serums/creams at night your skin should feel dewy.

Daily: (apply to face and neck)

Morning:
Always apply your products with a light gentle touch 
(1) Tonique/Toner, Rose Water or Eau/Water Micellaire in the morning to lightly cleanse-will refresh, promote healthy skin surface, deep cleans pores, helps balance, tighten pores, calm, cool, clean/remove impurities/gently exfoliate dead cells and give you that healthy fresh glow to start the day - Apply liberally toner to cotton eye makeup pad remover and lightly glide across the skin, do not rub - repeat twice if you wish.  If you do not wish to use a toner in the morning (though I highly recommend) then wipe down face with a wet warm washcloth, You can mist a toner or water or micellaire water as needed to hydrate and revive skin during the day  (2) Eye Gel/Cream (3) Antioxidant Serum (4) Protective Cream with or without Sun protection depending on skin needs (Protects against harsh inside and outside elements and hydrates/moisturises the skin tissues)  

Evening:  

(1) Cleansing Milk or Cleansing Mousse/Foam Wash not Gel* (Cleans the pores thoroughly and maintains the balance of the skin).  Use a large amount (3-4 pumps - quarter size) of Cleanser and massage into skin well (30 seconds to 1 minute) then remove with warm soft washcloth. You may repeat wiping face with warm washcloth or a second cleansing if you prefer.  You want a well cleaned skin at night  (2) Eye Gel/Cream (3) Retinol or Treatment Serum (4) Treatment Cream (Hydrates/Moisturises, Balance, Purify, Soothe/Calm and Nourishes - Use about a pea to a dime size of your night cream)

Facial Masque ~ Weekly ~ So beneficial for your skin ~ see blog article here

Please note:  Clients who have not followed a skin care regimen and are just starting out at first you may use a mask 2 times a week for a few weeks, till skin looks really good, then cut back to once weekly. Remember at first skin may break out more then usual or not look so great as you are bringing to surface impurities that have been clogged underneath the skin for some time, but please continue with your routine and this will stop when skin is no longer congested and you keep up/maintain with your routine.  More info on facial masque visit my blog posts on masks. 

Tip:  In Summer you may wish to exchange your face products to lighter versions of the ones you are using for Winter months :)

Beyond Basic Skincare - Add ons to your Basic Routine

Repair/Treatment as needed Repair/Treat Skin with serums, concentrates, boosters or/and other products that repair the skin - It is suggested that everyone over 25 yrs should use this kind of product 3 times a week, 30+ yrs once daily, 50+ yrs use once or twice daily, 60+ yrs twice daily - some 40+ skins may need to use twice daily also due to premature ageing/menopause/stress/illness or much skin damage from the sun and then when skin looks better/healed you can cut back to once daily. Many clients like to use two different types of serums when using twice daily. During a cure treatment twice daily, is recommended for everyone. The only time you may need to use a serum/concentrate under the age of 25 is if you are treating problemed skin. I recommend using serums at night if using once daily only and prefer my clients use Vitamin A-Retinoids products at night. I also have clients who use serums when needed, when they feel their skins needs a boost, or as an intense treatment, use serum 2x daily till bottle empty, like 2-4 times a year. Under 30 years old serums I recommend are AHA and Vitamin C also I would recommend Dr Renaud Natigene Collagen Gel and Celeste Serum at night as your moisturiser and serum as a stand alone product.   Dont forget about ampoules, cerasomes capsules and oils, they are wonderful products.

Exfoliate face as needed

Exfoliate face as needed depending on skin type/needs, type and level of sensitivity, or your esthetician's recommendation. This can be from once a week, to twice a month to once a month, occasionaly or not at all. I recommend that at 60yrs plus you should exfoliate just occasionally or not at all and use weekly masks. Overexfoliation will dry up the skin and cause irritation, inflammation, more wrinkles and breakouts .... listen to your skin.  A good consistent skincare regimen/routine will lessen the need to exfoliate.  I am not a supporter of over/agressive exfoliation.  Remember you can use clay mask or enzyme mask/peeling - as they gently exfoliate - All masks exfoliate to some degree depending on type of mask, as some exfoliate more then others such as clay and enzymes mask. Or even incorporating the use of AHA creams or AHA serum 2-3 times a week into your routine is a great way to gently exfoliate.

For sensitive skin, avoid exfoliants with micro-particles. Instead, choose an exfoliant that contains enzymes for a gentle yet effective treatment or incorporate your bead/particle exfoliant into your milk cleanser to make it more gentle and then you get to cleanse and exfoliate at the same time.

As we age, our pores get bigger. Alpha hydroxy acids help reduce the signs of those enlarged pores as mentionned above you can incorporate a few nights a week aha serums or creams. Instead of squeezing your blackheads I recommend to use a aha, (Vitamin A) retinols, toners and so on products to keep pores clean or doing a consistent skin care routine as mentionned at top of page or doing a gentle peel when needed is enough to unclog pores. I do not recommend squeezing the skin at all (extractions), especially after the age of 50.  It is my opinion that it does more harm then good.  Body exfoliation can be done once weekly or as needed.  Skin is different on the body. 

Before concluding that a treatment/product does not work, give it 90 days of continuous, consistent use! do not switch back and forth to different products! Also you many need to at the beginning to use some products every 2-3 days instead of daily until your skin adapts to the change...... and then resume to daily use once your skin adapts to your new regimen or cream...... sometimes when you use too new many products all at once your skin as a difficult time to all the change all at once and not like it and may react..... if this happens try to introduce slowly one product at a time....... like use one cream for one week then the next week, add a second product, third week add another and so on.... go at your own skin paste/reaction.

Copyright © 2014 Elle's Esthetics Skin Care Boutique ~ Linda-Elle, Esthetician-Skincare Specialist

                   

 

Linda-Elle, Esthéticienne ~ Les soins du visage me passione, Skincare is my Passion                                 

                     

01 Feb '16

Facial Masks

Posted by Linda Elle

Image Credit © Natali Products Inc

Masks are so beneficial for your skin.  They contain greater concentrations of active ingredients and moisturisers than serums or creams.  They complement the products you use daily, help the products you use penetrate better, bring back quickly skin into balance, they are healing and antiaging, they reduce redness, wrinkles, dryness, dullness and breakouts.  

Masks clean deeply, purify, nourish, tonify the facial contours, refresh, gently exfoliate the skin, fortify the skin tissues, relax facial expressions, soften the accumulated layers of dead cells on skin which will be exfoliated once you remove mask giving you smooth skin and nearly invisible pores.  Masks are a must to your skin routine.

Leave on for 15 - 20 minutes, use about a quarter size of the mask and apply evenly to face and neck.  Use weekly for best results.  In the winter you may increase their use to 2-3 times weekly.

You may also do a layering of masks for an intensive at home Spa Treatment.  This involves using 2 or 3 different types of masks in succession.  You would start the process with an exfoliating/purifying mask, followed by an hydrating mask then by a rejuvenating/nourishing mask depending on your skin needs.   Always start with cleansing and toning and finish with toning if applicable and moisturiser if applicable depending on the mask you are using, no need for a serum.  

Copyright © 2014 Elle's Esthetics Skin Care Boutique ~ Linda-Elle, Esthetician-Skincare Specialist

03 Oct '15

BB & CC Creams

Posted by Linda Elle

Image Credit © Igor Mojzes | Dreamstime.com 

BB = Beauty Balm  

CC = Color Correcting

There is little difference between the two, its more about preference, trial and error, usually cc creams will feel lighter in texture and finish. 

These products are not to be used by themselves, always over your favorite product either serums or day creams.  They are basically tinted moisturisers meant to give a light coverage to replace your foundation not your day care product, in my opinion these are not must have products, they dont really give you the exact results that you want, very little benefit as a moisturiser and mediocre as a coverage product and dont have many shades.  If you already have a favorite foundation or tinted moisturizer you love I would continue using them. 

If you follow a good skin care regimen you will acheive the results that you want with very little need for extra coverage and a foundation applied lightly would work and is still my product of choice, a foundation with blur/illuminating/light filtering technology would work very well to give you a natural look.   

You dont need to apply foundation all over your face you can apply it very lightly to areas that need attention or you can apply all over but very lightly glide a few fingers across your skin using a pea/peanut size to cover your entire face, apply the pea/peanut size amount in your palm and dab fingers/brush/sponge in product then glide across the areas of skin treating and redabbing and applying to a different area every time you dab.  

Many makeup artist use these bb and cc products as primers and use foundation over them to get to results they want to acheive for a special event, night out, wedding and so on........

Copyright © 2015 Elle's Esthetics Skin Care Boutique ~ Linda,  Esthetician-Skin Care Specialist

 

11 Sep '15

Collagen in Skincare

Posted by Linda Elle

Image Credit:  © | Dreamstime.com

Collagen is one of the main constituents of our skin. Located in the dermis, it is responsible for the resistance and integrity of the tissue.

Collagen is a protein that serves as a key structural component of tissue, such as skin, bones, ligaments, etc. The dermis, the inner layer of the skin, contains large amounts of collagen, elastin and fibers which are responsilbe for your skin's strength, texture and elasticity. Also, as we age, collagen becomes hard and cross-links with neighboring fibers making it difficult for the skin to hold moisture or maintain elasticity, it collapses on itself below the surface of the skin thus seen on the surface of the skin as wrinkles.

Wrinkles, lines and rough skin texture are a SURE SIGN OF POOR DERMAL COLLAGEN HEALTH. Collagen used in creams remains an effective tool in the area of cutaneous hydration. In fact, one can compare its molecule to a big sponge able to absorb a great quantity of water. Therefore when applied to the skin it maintains it to a humid state and provides it with optimal hydration thus reducing the appearance of ageing signs.

After the age of 20 collagen production reduces l % per year.

Collagen creams help by hydrating (moisturizing) the epidermis which tends to firm and revitalise, favours cellular renewal, smooth and plump up the skin by increasing the skins elasticity. Help to nourish, repair and tighten the skin as it helps to replenish the skin's own natural collagen making it softer and radiant. The main role of collagen creams is to help retain water in the stratum coeum, that is to maintain the epidermis in a normal state of hydration.   Also collagen is well known for its healing properties!

Recommended use of collagen skincare products are at any age or as soon as fine lines or wrinkles start to appear!

Copyright © 2015 Elle's Esthetics Skin Care Boutique ~ Linda,  Esthetician-Skin Care Specialist

06 Sep '15

AHA - Benefits

Posted by Linda Elle

ÔĽŅÔĽŅ

Image Credit:  © | Dreamstime.com

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) Who Do They Benefit?  

* Hyperkeratinization (increased accumulation of keratin and cell) extreme cases of hyperkeratinization such as Seborrheic dermatitis (Seborrhea skin conditions which is excess flaking, itching, scaling and redness afflicting either scalp or face due to an increase of the rate of production of skin cells which buildup on the skin.

* Hyperpigmentation (brown spots, discoloration), dry sun damaged skins

* Xerosis (so-called "dry", rough, uneven skin, calloused skin)

* Wrinkles and fine lines

* Comedonal, Whiteheads and blemished skins

* Keratosis pilaris (are numerous tiny rough spots sometimes red and itchy usually on the arms but may appear on the thighs, hands, eyebrows, cheeks or any other part of the body caused by accumulation of old skin cells, this occurs mostly in the winter months when skin is more prone to drynes and low humidity or after the summer months due to sun exposure.....(causing calloused skin)

WHAT ARE THE MAIN EFFECTS OF AHA ON THE SKIN?

* Refine the corneal layer by exfoliating accumulation of dead skin cells

* Accelerate cellular renewal

* Moisturize by stimulating the skin to produce hyaluronic acid, known for it's highly

moisturizing effect on the skin but to be effective the concentration should be 2% and up! * Reduce brown spots

* Even out and Brighten the complexion

* Make wrinkles less visible

* Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) are naturally occurring acids, derived from the sugars.. Some examples are

Glycolic Acid (Sugar Cane), Lactic Acid (Milk), Tartaric Acid (Grapes), Citric Acid (Citrus Fruits), Malic Acid (Apples), and Mandelic Acid (Bitter Almonds).

* These acids work at the very base of the stratum corneum, dissolving the cement that holds dead skin cells together to remove dead cells from the skin, removal of this external barrier enables easier, deeper penetration of other skin treatments as well clears oiliness and impurities, increases skin hydration due to the natural moisturizing properties of AHAs and rejuvenates the skin.This increases cell turnover and influences the structure of new stratum corneum being made. AHA has the potential to help bleach unwanted skin discoloration. This results in skin that is more flexible,even in color, more smooth, and more moisturized, making fine lines less visible while delaying the aging process. Finally, they not only stimulate collagen production, but help plump up collagen and elastin fibers within the skin. It is the basis of many acne therapy and skin rejuvenation!

* Excellent exfoliating product!!!! For all skin types except reactive/sensitive skins and any age (teenagers to seniors)! IF YOUR SKIN IS TOO SENSITIVE FOR AHA YOU WILL KNOW CAUSE IT WILL FEEL IRRITATED AND RED.

* An effective concentration should contain at least 7-8% alpha hydroxy acid with a pH between 2.5 and 4.0. A pH of up to 4.5 is acceptable on products with high concentrations of 20-25%. Products for use at home should never contain over 10 % alpha hydroxy acid, anything over 10-15% a doctor's or professional supervision is required. Alpha hydroxy acids do not thin the skin if used correctly!

* Remember one should always wear a sunscreen if one is using alpha hydroxy acids products and going in the sun (which is not recommended because of possible sensitivities, this also includes the cold and wind, the reason why I recommend to use AHA creams at night to prevent any possible reaction/sensitivities to any harsh environment ) In the summer one should always use suncblock if they will be outside!

* For some it is best at the beginning to use the aha cream every second night and work up gradually to every night. Or you may wish to use the product every other night throughout the treatment and alternate with another cream if your skin feels sensitive...

* While using AHA creams it is normal to have some flaking occuring this is just the dead skin cells being shed off! Also during the first few weeks some people may experience some breakouts that is normal too due to the product eliminating impurities from the pores and a sensation of warmth and light tingling may occur!!!

If you wish you can apply a moisturizer (optional) on top of the AHA over dry areas or use it alone! Also the need to exfoliate the skin once a week is not necessary when using aha products!

Copyright © 2015 Elle's Esthetics Skin Care Boutique ~ Linda,  Esthetician-Skin Care Specialist


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